You're trying on your suit, but you can't help but feel like something is off. Are the shoulders sticking out too much? Is the chest too loose?
How can you tell if your suit fits you well? This list will show you some of the most common suit fitting problems. We will also explain how you can fix them.
1. Shoulder Divots
The most common and most notable fitting problem that keeps your suit from fitting well is shoulder divots. It is also one of the most costly and difficult problem to fix.
Shoulder divots occur when the bicep portion of a suit sleeve sinks pass the shoulder pads. This occurs when the width of the bicep area doesn't fit well with the suit's armhole.
2. Gap Between Lapel & Shirt Collar
This is the second most common fitting problem. Your suit lapels should follow you shirt collar.
There can be several different causes for this problem. The most likely culprit is the shoulders don't fit the suit well.
Too much fabric in the shoulders can cause this fitting problem
Shoulders are the most variable part of a person's physic and the hardest to fit well with a suit. If you have sloped shoulders, the suit's fabric juts out instead of laying flat. This can also cause bagginess in the front of your shirt.
This fitting issue may also occur in athletic people with large chests. If you do not have a large chest but are experiencing tightness, then your suit is too slim.
3. Back Collar Roll
A back collar roll is a fitting problem where the suit bunch up along the back near the collar. It more often affects people with square shoulders wearing a jacket designed for sloped shoulders. This means there is extra fabric that is not laying flat along the base of your neck.
4. Button Forms an X Shape
If the lapels form a tight X shape when you put on a button, then your suit is too slim to fit your body type well. This can be caused by the suit being too tight in the shoulders or back.
5. Wrinkles on the Sleeves
If your suit fits you well, there should be no wrinkles along the arms of your sleeves when your arms are at rest. If there are, then the angle at which the arm was sewn on to the rest of the suit isn't ideal for your shoulder type.
6. Bagginess at the Hem of Your Pants
This is a fitting problem that affects the pants of your suit outfit. If you have slim legs, your pants may bunch up near your feet.
This occurs when the hem opening of your pants is too wide. Tightening the opening creates a better fit because it leaves less fabric to bunch up at the bottom.
Common Fitting Problems in Non-Bespoke Clothing
Many of these fitting problems are seen in off the rack suits. It can be expensive to have a tailor alter these suits, so it is usually better to get a custom or bespoke suit.
The best way to avoid fitting problems is by getting a custom or bespoke suit.
Shoulder divots are the most common problem for fit people wearing off the racks suits. Few suits are designed with people with big biceps in mind.
The X shape will only fit well by being let out, which may not be possible with a off the rack suit. Your tailor may not be able to fix it.
How Can a Suit Be Altered?
Here is how a tailor can alter your suit
A tailor can fix a gap between your lapel and shirt collar in the pattern making process. They can also add shoulder pads.
If you have a large chest, the chest area of the suit can be let out to solve the fitting problem.
Bagginess at the pant hem can be fixed by making a smaller break on the pant. This will create a smaller and slimmer hem.
A back collar roll can be fixed by opening the suit collar and taking up excess fabric to fit your back well. Wrinkles in the sleeve can be fixed by altering or rotating the sleeve.
A lot of these processes can be costly. That is why it is often better to get a custom or bespoke suit and get a suit that fits well the first time.
It can sometimes be cheaper to get a custom or bespoke suit
Nathon Kong does all these alterations for you until your bespoke suit fits perfectly. Your suit is your armour. You need to feel confident in what you wear.
That is why Nathon Kong also incorporates art by people with mental health difficulties into the lining of each suit so it tells the story of a person's journey to mental health recovery. The art works are created by participants of Les Impatients, a nonprofit organization supporting people with mental health difficulties through therapeutic art programs. Nathon Kong donates 10% of all proceeds to Les Impatients so that they can continue to support mental health.
Art by Les Impatients
Nathon Kong also creates limited edition silk fashion accessories with art by Les Impatients. Each accessory comes in a unique gift box with a certificate of authenticity detailing the art piece's edition number and the story of the artist who created it.
10% of your purchases are donated to nonprofit organizations supporting mental health and local artists